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Salads make great starters, too, especially the laab moo, which features a heap of spicy ground pork laced with fish sauce and accompanied by raw vegetables for scooping and wrapping. But why not go for the kor moo yang ($10), an app of grilled pork neck served with a tart pool of lime and tamarind? The classic deep-fried tofu with a sweet and fishy dipping sauce (tow hoo tod, $6) is dependable, and so are the perfect curry puffs bulging with chicken and potatoes, three to an order, which remind me of the European influences on Thai cuisine. Street food would be an exceedingly good place to start your meal at Corthaiyou. Indeed, a blurb on the menu cites Kumsiri’s experience working with her mother and grandmother in their street-food enterprises. Jintana Kumsiri is the chef, nicknamed “Nid.” She hails from Khon Kaen, a city in the center of the Isan region famous for its night-food market. There are niches for objets d’art, while a bustling open kitchen dominates the rear of the dining room. The restaurant looks like a hut out front, with an inside clad floor-to-ceiling in light-toned woods.

Newcomer Corthaiyou is one of those worth visiting ( Mondayoff is another), making punning reference to Cortelyou Road, the location of the restaurant. This has resulted in unique take on the cuisine in the city, and worth traveling for, especially if you choose dishes carefully.

In general, the menus are more adventuresome than the neighborhood Thai carryouts found all over Brooklyn, with a focus on premium ingredients. There are currently four Thai restaurants in the neighborhood, though that number will hopefully grow. A new hotspot is developing in Ditmas Park, a region of stately Victorian homes south of Prospect Park in the heart of Brooklyn.